Monday, November 17, 2014

Foie Gras

Bob here....Giving Lisa a break on updating the blog.
It is has been very rainy in the Beaujolais. We are not used to day after day of dreary rain coming the the Western Rockies of the USA.  At least it's cold!
Here are some pictures of our compound in the late Fall.


This is our house from the Northeast looking Southwest as you enter from the gate.
This is looking straight North.

Panorama with Aimé and Catherines pad, our pad, and Chez Paul and Maguy!

Well, since it is wet and cold here, this post is going to a) ramble and b) not be as delightful and funny as les posts de Lisa and c) have some food science. Because, who doesn't love food science?

Conceptually, I want to start this theme with a picture from our time in Lake Arrowhead in Southern California before we left. In this blurry photo one can see Micah and a 1/2 ear of corn.
Micah loves vegetables, especially corn. If you don't watch him, he will keep eating vegetables until there is none left, on his plate, on your plate, on the table, in the house...When we were in Lake Arrowhead before trip, Uncle Jon nicknamed Micah the 'Corn Alien' due to his love of corn.

One of the reasons we are here is that my research interests involve determining the role of food chemistry on health, in both humans and animals. In the courses I teach at Utah State I cover some of the history of agriculture. If you know much about corn, you know that it is from the New World (Americas) and was introduced in Europe after Columbus. Corn is very efficient and produces about the most biomass per unit land as any crop. When it was first introduced into Europe it quickly became the staple food of peasants in Italy.

Although our genetic stock is Old World (thanks 23&me (https://www.23andme.com/), we are very  New World in appearence and demeanor. We were surprised when we first got to France to see corn everywhere...
On top of the hill behind our house
From the train...
Although the summer is over, some corn is still in the field as of Novermber 8th...
And some has been harvested...

Where is all this corn going? Well, it seems that little of it is not being used for any corn-based foods Micah can find in the local markets or in the hypermarché.There is some corn in Micah's cereal. This box tells us the whole grains used are from France. In this case, Micah was eating his cereal with raw milk (lait cru).
We also found some corn in a treat from our favorite bakery in St. Verand . Jasper got the center corn flake cluster that was very strongly flavored of evaporated milk. Pretty good, though.
This is the crew outside Celine's bakery after a chilly hike in the town of Joux (games). That town had riddles posed all over on small billboards (future post).

One of my research activities at Utah State has been to look at how animal diets affect the fat composition of the meat, milk and eggs that result. 

As with my previous travels in Italy, I have found that the French eat A LOT of pork. In Italy it was explained to me that chickens make eggs, cows make milk, but pigs pretty much only make pork. I am very curious to know if the fat composition of the lovely cured pork we are eating reflects a high corn diet. 
A fine selection of probably corn-fed, cured pork.
1/2 a rustic corn-fed rustic sausage purchased at the market behind our house. 

One interesting aspect of the corn used to feed the animals here (as the grandson of an Ohio corn farmer) is that the corn is all non GMO. Nonetheless, you still see the sorts of small signs by the corn telling you which agribusiness hybrid it is. If you think this is any more 'natural'than a GMO hybrid you should come to Logan and take my class next Fall. 

Anyway, the reason I wanted to discuss corn is that we got to see some corn feeding 'up close and personal' in action last week. We visited a foie gras farm. In French, 'foie' means liver, and gras means 'fat'. 

Our village is nestled below some rolling hills in the Beaujolais region. On top of the hill behind Anse we visited a farm last Saturday evening. The farm is called La Ferme des Perrelles (http://www.producteurs-fermiers-rhone.com/perrelles/). Here is a map showing its proximity to our house. The farm is where the red circle is, and Chez Ward is circled in green. 

We went and visited the farm last week along with a lot of other people. That is because in France, farms often have open houses to show off what they do. Very cool.

 Here is a little information they show about their operation. It starts with a little history 'Une peu d'histoire...' Accrding to the poster, foie gras was discovered by the Egyptians, and brought to Europe by the Romans. Birds and ducks were originally fed figs, but now it is 90% corn.


They are are inspected for processing and direct sales. They process over 2500 ducks per year.  Once the liver is taken it is slow cooked at low heat until it is pink in the center. 

Here is a picture of a duck being given a lot of corn....This reminds me of something we used to do in college. However, it was not corn in the funnel,but rather a hopped fermentate of corn, barley and rice.
They are raised in the fresh air for 3 months without any GMO foods. Then, they are gavaged with corn 2 times per day for 2 weeks.

The ducks did not seem to mind, other than the commotion caused by a lot of kids and noise. According to Olivier, feeding ducks like this mimics the natural process where they load up on calories for their long migrations. Unlike humans, ducks can store a  lot of fat in their liver. For humans, fatty liver causes inflammation and in some cases fibrosis and cirrhosis.

Here a normal and a fatty liver are juxtaposed. On the left, the liver is reddish and smaller, whereas a fatty liver is more tan/brown. When it is sliced thin and stained, the fat droplets appear as white spots which are far more prominent on the right. As you can see, a fatty liver is literally packed full with fat. When somewhat cool, the fat has the consistency of butter.


At the La Ferme des Perrelles,ducks are fed whole, organic non GMO corn. According to Olivier, most ducks are fed corn meal in the production of foie gras. His believes the whole corn is better for the animal because ducks can store the corn in their crop. Once there, he says they duck can control the digestion and absorption process. At least that is what I think he said. French is a hard language to understand!!
In addition to showing you how they make their products, on open farm day you are also invited to sample them. Above is a fuzzy picture of the tasting section. At  La Ferme des Perrelles they not only produce the animals, but they also process them into many tasty forms. They make terrines, riellettes, lasagnas, duck fat, etc. 
Behind Micah they were offering several different dishes with products from the farm. We really liked the duck parmientier. This was sort of a Shepherd's Pie with Duck and mashed potatoes. 
This is Micah and his friend, Castille. She has a lot of energy.
 Here is a picture of some of their products. Whole fatty livers, or foie gras, are on the lower right. They also have duck breast, and other cuts of duck.
 Here were some other duck and poultry products.
 This is creme brulee made with foie gras (on the left) and frozen foie gras on the right. If you can see, a whole liver might cost you about 40-50 euros.
 Here were some less traditional products from the farm. This is tandoori chicken wings.
More whole foie gras.

If you are going to buy foie gras, it is nice to know that it is made by caring people. At  La Ferme des Perrelles they take their work seriously.

'We are often asked, 
          Where is the difference from?

  • The fields are maintained without herbicides
  • The animals are raised for a longtime and without antibiotics
  • The food is organic and grown without fertilizers or pesticides
  • the products are made without preservatives, colorants or flavor enhancers. 
          But then, what is in your products? 
Love and Passion!'

Having worked in many fine dining restaurants, I have had been exposed to foie gras many times. However, I cannot say I have always liked it that much. However, at the  La Ferme des Perrelles the stuff was fantastic. They just served it at room temperature on some bread.

Well, the next night Uncle Jon came to visit us in France. He had been up late the night before at a 50th party in Bath, England, and took several trains to the Part Dieu railway station in Lyon. Fans of the Naked Gun may think I am kidding, but there really is a train station in Lyon called Part Dieu.
Well, since Jon got in late on Sunday night, it was not possible to make it back to Anse to see the nephews and sister-in-law before bedtime.
We decided to have a brother's dinner overlooking Lyon, on the Fourviere Hill. We ate in a restaurant just next to the large church in the background. 
Here is the view.This image is from the internet as I did not get a good picture. 
The reason I bring up dinner is that foie gras was on the menu!!
Here is Uncle Jon with a slice of foie gras, some pain doré, et some cotes du rhone.  Speaking of the Rhone, it passes just through Lyon. 
Below is us, out in the fuzzy darkness the Rhone river meet up with the Saone in South Lyon 

Well, that is just about all. Except for one last thing..the reason I told you so much about fatty liver. 
Despite the great delicacy that comes from duck liver full of fat, it is actually a hugely serious problem in the USA. It is estimated that about 25% of Americans have some extra fat stored in their liver, and for a small percentage, this is the first step towards much more serious liver disease. There is some indication that specific components of out diet can affect human liver metabolism. Well, it just so happens I am working on a project here in Lyon related to liver fat and inflammation. Perhaps I will post the results of our studies before we leave. 


Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Super-Halloween-Visit-Birthday-LOTO!!!!


Nous sommes ici encore!!  

When we left you last we had just returned from Paris and were trudging our way through the rest of the Toussain holiday.  The last weekend of which was HALLOWEEN!  Yes, they have it here, yes it is a very scaled down version of it.  Malheureusement for the enfants, we picked the exact wrong route for Trick our Treating and they got very few "hits".  Some children managed to do quite well however, so it was operator error, i.e. us.  Having said that, the candy that was given out here would be seized by the authorities in America, put in a safe location and burned for fear of bombs, poison, razor blades or ebola.  It was free floating gummis or jelly beans, the occasional walnut and then some wrapped taffies.  

I loved that almost all the costumes were creepy.  I'm not sure I saw anyone dressing as something just because they liked it.  It was pretty much all blood and gore and witches and bad people.  No one decorated until the day of, and even then it was a novelty.  "Trick or Treat" translates to: "Des bonbons ou un sort" (candies or a spell).

We were invited to carve pumpkins with the neighbors on Halloween day which was, as always, a delight.  All the pumpkins sauf one were the edible kind and the innards were meticulously scraped into a bowl and everyone made soup.  We made pumpkin seeds, they were novel and most folks seemed to like them.  At the end of the carving all the children ate crepes before completing their costumes and heading out.  We left the neighborhood party and went to another party and proceeded to not feed the children for the first of 2 nights in a row until 10 or so.  

The following night we visited a farm run by a bonnehomme named Olivier, more fondly known as Coin Coin, which means quack quack.  He runs a poultry farm that specializes in foie gras.  Other than it being very educational, mostly fun and more time with friends, I found it to be un petit peu horrifying.  That being said, the foie gras was phenomenal and overall the geese have a great life on a farm with a great view of the beaujolais and are treated to all the corn they would ever dream of eating.  Again the children ate at 10 or 10:30.

Then we wrapped up the weekend with a very quick visit from Bob's brother John.  It was so great to see him.  The boys were over the moon about it.  We all wished he could have stayed for a long time and brought his family.  La prochain fois.

I have mostly recovered from that weekend.  The children enfin went back to l'ecole and we had a minute to rest before Micah's 6th birthday on the 5th of Novembre.  He went to the pool that morning as he does on Mercredis and by that afternoon was in bed with a decent fever.  Jasper and Bob went out and bought some playmobile from Grandpa Bill and Oma and Monopoly Lyon from Nona and Papu while the little guy rested.  He continued to miss the little party I had tried to plan for him on Friday night but recovered for an awesome Raclette dinner at our host/neighbors home on Saturday.

We have subscribed to this cool website that provides a sort of scavenger hunt of clues on various hikes and walks through the country, forest, and cities.  It provides some motivation and cool site seeing for the whole family.  We did one of these in a town called Joux and also one in Lyon in the very cool Croix Rousse section of the city.  We didn't finish the Croix Rousse mission because we got very distracted by the last day of the 6 week long carnival of the chestnuts, Fete de Marrons that happens there.  It was very much like the Cache County fair, only freezing and everyone was speaking french.

I almost forgot about the super-loto this last weekend.  The school PTA puts on a "super-lot" event for apparently the entire region, where one pays 10 euros for 4 cards, adult or child, and proceeds to play loto for approximately 3 hours.  Cultural, painful. The kids lost interest in about 7 minutes leaving us to play many, cards of loto.  Don't forget that french numbers are not all that straightforward.  We were with the parents of Jasper's good friend Timeo whom helped us when we should falter with our 8 cards.  Their older daughter Chloe lended a hand while Jasper, Timeo and Micah ran wild with the 50 other children bored out of their minds.  43.  I was the number 43 away from winning the all expense paid trip for four to Disneyland, Paris.  More than likely a blessing, but still...

This is where we are now.  I haven't mentioned a spectacular bike ride along the Soane with friends and I have spared you my tortuous stomach flu tales and Bob's continuous plunge into the decrepit-ness of age.  Let me know if these things interest you and I can add some more photos.

And so:

The making of the creeper costume




First you have to cut the little squares.
then you have to glue the little squares
This is a creeper in case you didn't know.  He's a bad guy in Minecraft, he creeps.





Pumpkin carving party, once again the master of cermonies, Christophe

The dirty work

The Americans


Who's that LURKING?

Lil' punkins



and of course crepes!
Courtesy of Adeline, merci beaucoup!


They might look as cute as they come but....


as the sun sets on the rue this all hallows eve..




and the citrouilles are lit





OUT CREEP THE CREEPERS
AND THE BLOOD SUCKERS
(pause for pumpkin art)




AAAARREEEEAAAOUOOUOUUUUUU!!!

Find the American

The pumpkins weren't the only things lit...
Happy Eloween!!
(That's not an accent you hear, that's actually Elodie whose costume says that courtesy of the Canadians)
Elodie gets the photo cred on the pumpkin carving shots


des bonbons ou un sort-ing
doesn't quite roll off the tongue the same


The haul the next morning, probably half the size
Should be tested for cyanide
The walnuts provided for great entertainment the next morning


Fall fun in the yard





Shout out Pagnucco in my maroon hat!

And the roses keep on blooming..




La Plume des Perelles (see following post by Bob)



Dejeuner with Uncle Jon







Birthday Boy



in his birthday suit



after a fun day at the pool

with his friends.

Birthday dejuener



Birthday BED

Birthday Brother builds birthday boy's toys


Birthday dinner (sushi and ibuprofen)

RAIN CHECK ON THE CAKE



SUPER-LOTO

Micah, Jasper and Timeo

Recognize the room from Conscrit?


Did you know that the number 97 in french translates to four twenty seventeen..in french?



Clue finding in Joux


Looking for clues in the town

Better than finding a clue
Local fauna

Celebrate étrangers
Here's to the fish folk, this was a lake full of fish

DAM

Shout out to Montana
Final clue, can we go to Celine's bakery yet?

Yes we can.  Somehow this has become our favorite bakery, mostly because we found it when we were reeeaally hungry our during one of our first adventures here.
Sweet victory

CROIX ROUSSE-hunting for clues






We found the middle-eastern food section UK, it's waiting for you.....




Lyon bizarre

Room of marriages

confetti of marriages



Another boring view

Elephant art

Fete de Marrons

What kind of geeks look for clues in the middle of a carnival?
We learned that this is JM Jacquard who created a way of "digitalizing" silk production.



worthy of a picture

Bon Soirée


The nouveau cheveaux
Le grand frere de cheveaux LURKS



Cheese Porn
Shout out to Kelso